Sunset Crack was one of the first recorded rock climbs in Hong Kong. It is a climbers line, cleaving through Kowloon Peak past incredible features like the Yellow Wall and Suicide Rock. It is also one of our major trad lines in Hong Kong, albeit the addition of some bolted anchors in recent times has caused a bit of controversy. The route was originally graded Severe, gets described as a Hard Severe and I think it is Very Severe. Regardless, it is one of these routes that provides a relatively big experience and that is accessible to everyone.
The route access starts from #1 Fei Ngo Shan Road and cuts up right into the Jungle. A well worn path leads in about 40 minutes (uphill) to a point where you can cut horizontally left below the cliff. The base of the route is not obvious, but if you run out of cliff you have gone to far.
Pitch 1 - This starts steeply up a groove before a tricky step out right onto a rippled slab. This leads up and right below the Yellow Wall to a two bolt anchor (30m).
Pitch 2 - Continues up the fault line to a crucial runner (or two) in the slab, before either a run-out into a gully, or stepping left to find some gear in sometimes dirty cracks. Head up the gully to another two bolts (30m).
Pitch 3 & 4 - There is no doubting its a chimney and best to avoid getting sucked too far in. There are good runners and threads at the top, before what can feel like an awkward pull out onto an airy ledge on the left. Head up through a wide crack, to a horizontal crack. At this point there are a couple of choices. If you want the photo, belay and bring your partners up. Otherwise head left along the traverse to belay around the corner. You can also, from this belay, head up the gully on the right to arrive on the big ledge below pitch 5. Both the traverse and the gully are good, with the traverse and subsequent arete probably feeling a bit harder and more exposed.
Pitch 5 - Up the slab with a discontinuous crack line to finish up the arete. The final arete can feel stressful for both leader and second and it is work putting a sling round a bush on the top-out. There is a belay on the right using a big cam and thread. From here a short step and scramble lead to the summit.
Kowloon Peak has an incredible look out over the City and even on the coolest days it feels hot up there and somehow the walk-off always seems challenging. Best avoid abseiling the face as there is quite a bit of loose stuff around and places for a rope to get stuck. For those still with energy, the routes on the summit buttress are excellent, although often have 'money maker' groups on them these days.
A standard rack is all that's needed, up to #3 Cam. Some smaller ones are useful on pitches 2 and 5. Bigger nuts and long slings are also worth bringing along. That, plus plenty of water. Sunset Crack is an awesome route and one that I will keep doing and enjoying.
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