I had been nervous boarding the plane in Hong Kong. Mainly because it had been a long summer and I had fallen into the trap of 'not waiting to go on holiday'. I also felt old, tired and out of shape. With five days of this trip to go, it has been brilliant. This morning is one of Briancon's 65 annual days of rain and while my heart is going nay, my body is going yay.
Our mornings do seem to be getting a bit later, although the trip to the boulangier at the Champ Des Mars has become a bit of a routine, especially with the coffee and croissant being 2.50 Euros. With the heavy rain this morning, it does seem like to day will be the day to count the coffees and not the pitches.
Briancon is without doubt a world class climbing venue. There is climbing at all levels, from road-side, to multi-pitch, to major alpine. Climbing for all seasons, as well as exceptional skiing, mountaineering, ice-climbing biking, kayaking and walking. If that isn't enough, there is history, cafes and its a lot cheaper than anywhere else I have been in the Alps. I honestly don't understand why the place isn't more widely-recognised, other than it lacking the prestige of Chamonix, or the glitz and glamour of Zermatt. You could argue that it lacks the uplift of Chamonix, but a lot of valley climbing is accessed by rough tracks instead. This isn't party town. It is a low-key working town, filled with active people. And me, of course. In short, I love this Region of France. It feels like home.
We are a team of three for this trip and I always like to climb in this way. More conversation, less to carry and fewer domestic jobs. More risk that folks don't gel, but Mandy and Mark have been brilliant. My two best friends, who have instantly got on.
We have climbed for the past nine days in a row, always on a different crag. This has included - Rocher Baron, Bouchier, Fressinieres, AIlefroide, Rocher Baron (Gero), Rocher De Bez, Casse De Prelles, Pantalon and Mont Dauphin. Biggest faff was on the Poire in Ailefroide, where we abbed after four pitches and best post climb drink has been at Mont Dauphin. The climbing has all been exceptional, especially on the steep and improbable limestone. Our trip up the super classic easy route Eperon Bouchier has been a particular high point, including the beautiful trail through the woods in descent and the cafe at the base.
What is particularly awesome to see is the breadth of the climbing community here in Briancon. Everything from elite young climbers, through to teams in their 70s, all with a calm, relaxed and polite nature. This is not a place for the brash and the loud. It is more for those that are content with their place in the world and beauty that sits all around them.
We have mostly climbed on a single 70m rope, with 16 quickdraws. However, double 50s are more appropriate for the multi-pitches and there is more a trend towards natural protection on mountain routes, where it works. That said, this is still predominantly a sports climbing venue with a broad range of very well-bolted routes of all grades. In common with much of France, you can expect well-bolted cruxes, but perhaps some spacing on the easier ground. Everything we have done has felt safe and to a modern standard. The town also has two climbing walls. Bloc27, a new bouldering gym and the World Cup Wall. The latter is amazing to look at and actually has some reasonable routes on its back and flanks, albeit I remain unsure why you would climb on this when there is so much accessible rock near the town.
Access to the climbing has so far been pretty straightforward, although the tracks can be a bit rough and you can see why most of the local climbers are driving mini-SUVs that often look a little bit bruised and battered. The town also seems very popular with motorcycle tourers. There is an endless stream of GS1250s coming through the town and many riding groups having the time of their lives on the various passes in this Region.
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